We went to bed knowing that we had to get an early start. We weren’t absolutely sure of the distance, but we were anticipating about 60k back to Amsterdam. That doesn’t sound a lot in normal conditions, but when you are unsure of the way, and stopping frequently to work out directions every few kilometers, taking photos and also getting caught in conversation with locals, it is amazing how the time passes quickly.
We were up and sitting at breakfast at 7am, and virtually packed. It was a cold start to the day – our faithful weather ‘app’ was registering 1C outside, with prospects of a maximum not much higher than that. The consolation was that it promised to be a sunny day. In effect, these kinds of days reminded us of a perfect Canberra winter’s day. Breakfast was a feast for Kings (and Queens). The building was centuries old, literally right on the Rijn Canal which runs through Leiden just beyond the confluence of the ‘Oude Rijn’ (Old Rhine) and the ‘Nieuwe Rijn’ (New Rhine) just a hundred meters further up from our Nieuwe Minerva Hotel. The interior was still under renovation but was very advanced, reminding us a little of the interior of a well furnished and plush medieval castle. It reeked of quality and history.
The morning light didn’t arrive until almost 8:30am. We were feeling pleased with ourselves that we were all packed and ready to go at about 8:50am, having pumped up Julie’s tyres. It was very ‘fresh’, the cold air rushing against our faces as we maneuvered our bikes through the wet, narrow cobbled lanes of the old centre of Leiden, avoiding the markets just starting up in the central market place at the point where the rivers converge.
It was one straight cobbled street for several kilometers in an easterly direction to get ourselves out of Leiden. We were not fully confident though until we eventually saw a small bikeway sign that presented us with options. We were finally away, doing a slightly curved exit which took us slightly south-east towards the town of Alphen ‘aan den Rijn’ (which means on the Rhine). We tracked along with the Rijn canal for many kilometers, keeping pace with the early morning rowers plus their support crew on bikes with loud hailers giving occasional instructions. It was all quite nice so early in the quietness of the morning.
The air was chilly. There was a cold breeze into our faces from the north, just enough to make life a little more challenging, and cooler. My GPS had settled on 1C, but which gradually warmed to 3C by 1pm, before settling on 3C for the rest of the day. It was technically very cold, and a little tragic if we stopped for photos. The sun however was lovely, but struggled to compete with the cold which had consolidated around us. It wasn’t unpleasant while moving, but if we stopped for any length of time, it was hard to get rolling comfortably again.
Many people have asked what it is like to cycle all day in near freezing temperatures. To experience what it is like, ask your local butcher if you can set up a stationary bike in his meat cooler room, which is about the same temperature. Set up a large fan in front of you while you cycle slowly, setting the fan on medium. Get someone to occasionally spray your face with a light wispy spray which keeps your face moist all day, and stay in the fridge for about 6 hours. That goes close to experiencing what it is like. Let me know how you go.
At Alphen, we passed through the centre of the village, so we used the opportunity to enjoy a ‘Maccas’ coffee and use the toilets. It also had free wifi. We sat next to a local family who engaged in pleasant conversation, and then the young manager sat with us and just wanted to chat. It was hard to get away. He was a descendant of the famous Royal Delft family, proudly showing us the Royal Delft tattoo on his upper arm. He offered a free round of coffee, but we really needed to get on the road.
We had to track across country, at all times working our way north while drifting easterly, if that makes sense. We followed our map carefully. The country opened out. We were tracking through large and beautiful farms, alongside canals, through small forest breaks and small villages. It was also windmill country. Many lovely windmills took our attention. We were aiming for Uithorn, which for us was the place to which we cycled the previous Sunday from Amsterdam, which was at the 20k mark to go. Once we got there, we knew where we were and what was ahead of us.
We were tracking on dead straight rural roads to get there, which required us to zig-zag as we worked our way to Uithorn. Apart from the constant and deepening cold, the run from Alphen to Uithorn was 25k of very pleasant country, the final 10k being along the lovely canal that eventually joins the Amstel River at Uithorn. It seemed an age coming, but we were finally delighted to roll up out the front of the tiny quaint pub where a week ago we had coffee on our little outing from Amsterdam.
It was 1pm. We were at least confident now of making Amsterdam long before dark. However, we also had to factor in getting the bike back to Mike’s Bikes before the shop closed at 5pm. It was time though for coffee, so we enjoyed the respite from the cool air inside the quaint little pub, which was nicely filled with locals having a quiet Saturday midday ale.
The tall blonde lady at the bar recognized us when we came in from our visit a week previously. The coffee was lovely, the warm cosy room a nice respite from the cool air outside. However, at 1:30pm we hit the road again for the final run into Amsterdam, a road we knew very well by now. There was no more need to check the maps. We followed the Amstel River all the way into Amsterdam, the closer we got the busier it became with other cyclists, who all ride much faster than we were riding.
Julie did a great job on her jalopy of a bike. It was a most inappropriate bike for the kind of journey we undertook. However, having paid ‘blindly’ for it over the ‘net’, we didn’t have many options when it was presented to us. We couldn’t be more disappointed with Mike’s Bikes who have displayed hardly a trace of the courtesy and hospitality that we have otherwise experienced here in Holland.
We paused momentarily for final photos at the point where Van Ostadastraat meets the Amstel River. It was Julie’s last view of the River that had been a great companion. We would finish the day at exactly 60k. We rolled back down Van Ostadastraat, feeling a little excited eventually to see the lighted bike up the wall of the Bicycle Hotel. We decided to check-in, drop off my bike and the bags, and then do the final walk with the heavy machine of Julie’s to Mike’s Bikes, wondering what we should say if asked. However, their reception was about as shoddy as our departure a week ago! No ‘hi, how did you go’ or ‘hey great to see you, did you have a good time’.
We walked in the door. The same young guy was sleepily sitting behind the small counter. The other young guy saw us from the rear workshop and bike storage area, walked straight out and took the bike from me without basically a word. I stopped him then and reminded him that we were also returning the lights, tubes and jockey straps that they supplied. He hadn’t shown interest in getting them back. Only when Julie asked to use the toilet, did he ask her on the way past ‘how was the trip?’ Julie was nicely polite in her reply of course.
Meanwhile, I’m standing at the front counter. Only then did the young fellow come to life a little, and plucked up courage to ask me how the journey was. I also responded rather graciously, but said that it was a most inappropriate bike for that sort of journey and that my wife deserves a medal for riding it so far and so well despite its limitations. I wanted to know if ‘Mike’ was in the shop, but probably fortunately for both of us, Mike was apparently in Munich! However, the young guy had been researching my emails during our week away, for some odd reason, probably wondering if there was to be some explaining when we got back.
Anyway, we left the shop without making bad friends for our country, and ventured out into the cold once again. It was about 4:40pm. Our job was done. We decided on an early dinner at the lovely “Bagels & Beans”, splashing out also on a high calorie dessert and two rounds of ‘macciato’ or something similar, before getting out of the freezing night air and into our almost warm room on the 2nd floor of the Bicycle Hotel, and a long hot shower.
It has been a great experience to be on the road with Julie, triumphing over the conditions to enjoy the magnificent Dutch countryside with all its beauty and history. We have a free day tomorrow, a sleep in, a long breakfast and a chance to re-pack bags for Julie’s early departure to London on Monday morning.
Strangely, I’m feeling the slight ‘jitters’ about having to do it all again on Monday, except much further, on my journey from Amsterdam to Rotterdam, which is back past Leiden and also Delft, and then further to Rotterdam. I’m not sure of the distance, but it will be 80-90k, plus the complications of getting into the city centre of Rotterdam before the curtain of darkness. The prospect of doing it alone once again is the cause of slight feelings of trepidation.
From our almost warm room at the quaint 2nd floor of the Bicycle Hotel, we send our love.
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